It's now been a month since I returned from Korea, so I absolutely had to take the time to write before my memories faded. In fact, even when I was in the middle of it all, those moments seemed so dreamlike, as if they hadn't really happened. Recalling them today is a bit like anchoring them in reality. That's why I'm going to recount the adventures of a luthier in Seoul, especially for those who haven't been following my "stories" on Instagram.
The adventures of a luthier in Seoul
I don't know what else to call it but an adventure. Everything about this city was mind-boggling from the moment I arrived! The general atmosphere, the hustle and bustle, the vastness... none of it seemed like anything I'd ever experienced before... Another world compared to Strasbourg.
I was lucky enough to be greeted at the airport by an instrument dealer from Seocho. You know, that famous district where violin workshops and stores are concentrated. He was so insistent on picking me up, even though we'd only seen each other briefly in the past, that I agreed. At the time, I hadn't yet realized how welcoming Koreans were. What's more, I wasn't yet aware of their deep-seated desire to leave a good impression on every visitor they had.
As soon as I arrived in my apartment, I could already feel the jet lag taking hold of my body. Like a seven-hour leap in time, I found myself a bit like on New Year's Eve. I understood nothing of what was happening around me(I'm exaggerating a little), everything was written in a language that seemed inaccessible to me and the slightest instruction was difficult to follow. But I had to get a move on, and as soon as I'd packed my bags, I took a shower and rushed outside.
It's a real change of scenery!
A huge, bustling city
As you'd expect from a major metropolis, it's a veritable anthill, never ceasing to bustle with activity. At all hours of the day and night, the cycles follow one another in a continuous fashion. So there's no problem when you need to go to the store or find something to eat in the middle of the night. And speaking of activity, everyone seems to have one, and the work dynamic seems to be so different from that in France.
A little geography
To get an idea of what the Republic of Korea is like, we can compare it with France. Already, in terms of territory, it's 6 times smaller than France. Crossing the country from one end to the other is roughly equivalent to driving from Strasbourg to Dijon.
At the same time, there are just over 50 million inhabitants in the country, so the density is much higher. And around 40% of the population lives in Seoul. That's a lot of people in one place!
Yet I wasn't suffocated, even if taking the metro at rush hour with an instrument is clearly an extreme experience.
Focus on Seocho
What would a luthier do in Seoul without visiting Seocho? It's a district in the south of the city that's teeming with luthiers and music stores, particularly for bowed stringed instruments. What's impressive is the enormous concentration of these professionals in a neighborhood that isn't actually that big. According to the estimates of my colleagues, between 150 and 300 companies are located here... Suffice it to say that the competition is fierce and merciless.
Located not far from the most renowned conservatory for learning music and right next to the Seoul Arts Center. The main thoroughfare is filled with luxury stores and European cars, but it's as you wander down the alleyways that you realize the impressive choice of instruments on offer.
We can find anything here, as long as we know where to look. From affordable Chinese instruments to top-quality violins, made in the past or today in Europe and Korea. Indeed, Korea abounds in excellent violin and bow makers, some of whom have even won gold medals in international competitions.
I spent a lot of time in the workshops in Seoul. With all these people, both those I had known in the past and those I had just discovered, I was able to get a feel for the music market in Korea, and more particularly in the capital. And I realized that it was completely different from what we had in France.
The strings
To take the most striking example, strings. These are very affordable. In fact, they are considered a service, and prices are significantly lower than in Europe(the other reason is that VAT is half as high at 10%), which is why you'll find some very well-known references like Dominant or Evah Pirazzi.
I've also noticed that the market is a real jungle: in fact, almost every store, no matter how small, is an importer, distributor and retailer. Each of them then embarks on a perpetual quest to gain an advantage over their competitors thanks to exclusivities brought back from Europe or the United States. As a result, I've had to deal with some almost shocking proposals to use my name and image to sell products made in China... This has made me aware of certain realities that seem far removed from my daily life. All the while forcing me to make an appointment with theINPI as soon as possible!
Remakes
I spoke earlier about ropes, or other imported products that could be relatively affordable. However, since they don't make much margin on sales, they have to make a living some other way. And that's the other side of the coin. Service in Seocho will cost you a lot more, especially if you have the ropes you've just bought installed... Or for re-watering, for example, which is two or three times more expensive than in France.
After all, this is the land of bows and sticks!
Discovering Korea through food
From day one, I discovered the true passion that drives every Korean: food. Each of my hosts went out of their way to introduce me to the local flavours. Although many dishes may seem exotic to us Europeans, one thing is certain: flavor, color and conviviality are to be found at every table.
While some of you may have thought you could disgust me with "scary" specialities. However, I tasted all these colourful, tasty and lively dishes with relish!
Here's a colorful gallery to share my table settings with you.
A luthier returns to Seoul
Of course, returning to everyday life after such an incredible experience is not easy. I've had to make up for all the lost time that accumulated in my absence, and deal with the problems that keep piling up as time goes by.
However, it is with nostalgia that I compile my memories with you in these few lines. To be honest, I'm already looking forward to returning to the land of the fresh morning. That's why I'm announcing today that I'm actively preparing my projects, which will take place again in 2020.
So see you soon, my dear Koreans, over a barbecue and a few glasses of soju.
Great blog Guillaume! It's amazing how similar your impressions are to mine. And I look forward to reading about your next adventures.